“It is all about the transformative, intangible magic that occurs in the process”. Ezra Petronio’s 30 years of fearless imagemaking, Self Service, and his favourite memories with Mrs. Prada.
In the world of visuals, Ezra Petronio needs no introduction. As someone who has discovered some of the most exciting talent in the creative industry today, the photographer, editor and art director leads from the unwavering place of the heart. The New York-born, Paris based creative first started off by building his own creative agency, Petronio Associates in 1993, quickly becoming one of the main whisperers of the art behind visual language and how fashion talks through image. Stepping into his own world of narratives and launching Self Service only a year later, the image bible has housed some of the most influential images and interviews of our modern time, uncompromising in its striking visual narrative.
"I felt the desire to express to younger generations the notion that creativity, image making and visual communication is first and foremost a mindset." Indeed, Petronio’s latest project - a creative monograph titled Ezra Petronio: Visual Thinking & Image Making reflects on his illustrious career and 25 years of imagery, determination and beauty, and honouring a dedication towards authentic imagery. Also featuring commentary from his closest collaborators and friends in the face of Marc Jacobs, Honey Dijon and Chloë Sevigny, he divulges into a retrospective on the shifts in the industry, what it means to be fearless and how to stick to your own creative path.
Sitting down with Perfect, Ezra Petronio looks back upon what has always made him tick, and how the perception of imagery has changed throughout the years into a digital, overtly satiated place.
Angel: Ezra, what was your starting point that triggered you wanting to compile your illustrious portfolio of work into a book?
Ezra Petronio: There were several reasons, the first being the desire of transmission. As our fashion and luxury industry has gone through so many fundamental changes over the past decade which in turn has greatly affected our work methodology and the context within which work is now being produced, I felt the desire to express to younger generations the notion that creativity, image making and visual communication is first and foremost a mindset — a constant battle to preserve one’s personal ideology and artistic integrity. That regardless of the more extreme conditions in which we are required to produce strong and relevant work today, that the only way to achieve this and that it be something meaningful is to be unafraid and forward thinking.
It is for this reason that I included quotes from sixty important players of our industry in which they shared their personal insight on this matter. Another reason was for the pleasure of sharing my creative journey over the years which has been very diverse and rich. I was fortunate to meet and work with so many great talented and progressive minds, visionary designers, photographers, stylists, writers, directors and other talent.
And as I often define this personal journey as one of encounters with inspiring creative minds, the book pays homage to them all whether in my time as an art director, in Self Service magazine or through my portraiture as a photographer. Finally I also felt the need to explain the role and practice of art director and the extensive range of skillsets the job requires — from copywriting to product and packaging design, typography, graphic and editorial design, motion graphics and film.
Angel: Looking back at the work, what projects are the most special to you that stand out?
Ezra Petronio: The most memorable for me are the projects where the creative journey was the most unexpected, emotionally enticing and artistically interesting. I am always more attracted by the process and journey then the end result. And in any given project there is always a starting point and a final execution. It is the transformative magic that occurs in the process, the intangible moments, the collaborative energies, the unique layering and blending of specific elements, references and various skill sets that can produce something that is new and personal. There were so many moments like these that happened in projects included in the book.
Self Service magazine has a special place in my heart as I feel that it has over the years kept its creative integrity, relevance and original “raison d’être” which is to discover new talent, enable a genuine place for undiluted creative expression and celebrate fashions’ community and artists. It is a labor of love that is very demanding but so gratifying!
Another example was working with Mrs Prada on the Miu Miu campaigns. As much as Prada represented the more traditional side of her aesthetics and personality, Miu Miu expressed her versatile and multi facetted feminine side. So every campaign started with a conversation on what feminine incarnation inspired her in the moment as well as a few random visual references such as a Fellini book or Russ Mayer film still and from then on layers of ideas were added and the creative slowly transformed and developed with input from Fabio (Zambernardi) the photographers and set designer and once on set things were pushed even further. The end result was always something that was new and unexpected, built on these multiple juxtapositions.
Sometimes the improbable could also happen, such as with a campaign by Mert & Marcus with Laetitia Casta. We had originally built a large scale detailed French Hausmanian apartment in a London studio. The fittings were happening in a small room that was entirely decorated with 1950’s odd wall paper. As soon as Mrs Prada received the fitting polaroids did she decide that the entire campaign should be shot in that small room. She was inspired by the contrast of these odd vintage looking floral wall paper with her own patterns on the clothes. Recently I felt that kind of magic on Sabato’s first Gucci campaign. We all went to LA with Daria and David and some beautiful magical moments have happened.
Angel: You have seen the industry change tremendously during the past few years - what would you say are the the biggest differences now?
Ezra Petronio: The most striking one is that people tend to want to see what they already know! So you have more and more brands commissioning talent with too many pre-sets on creative deliveries. The advent of social media has also disrupted our industry tremendously, radically changing our work methodology and the channels, touch points and mediums of communication. Today, brands need to constantly engage with consumers with a continuous and ever increasing flow of information, imagery and noise! The upside to this evolution has been in the many barriers that have been broken. The industry has become less impenetrable, more inclusive and diverse and enabling more personal emancipation and joy for many and giving more opportunities for talented people to be discovered.
Angel: Looking out into the future, what do you look forward to both professionally and personally?
Ezra Petronio: From a professional point of view I value and now only engage in non toxic collaborations based on trust and the respect of everyone’s skill sets and experience. I remain deeply passionate about what I do and why I do it and will keep on doing so, for as long as there is pleasure and excitement! I will also continue spending more time on my photography and as a director, prepare Self Service 30 year anniversary and the launch of a new magazine and media in the year to come.
