#PerfectDiaries: Photographer Jess Segal takes us backstage at fashion week.
Im Jess Segal and I am a South African-born photographer who is based in London. Growing up in Cape Town meant spending lots of time outdoors in nature, I would spend hours watching landscapes change depending on how the light cast its shadows throughout the day. I think that’s where my disposition toward natural light came from, I love working with dreamy locations to create imagery that has an ethereal feeling.
My approach to shooting backstage is finding the calm in amongst the chaos. First observing my surroundings and then focus on finding interesting frames within frames. There are so many beautiful moments to be captured before the start of a show. The energy is full of life and there is a build up of excitement in the air.
The top shows that I covered this season were Rick Owens, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, 16 Arlington, Poster Girl and Chet Lo. One of my favourite things about fashion week is going to Paris. I love the atmosphere and sophistication of the collections. Every detail is thought out and each brand has its unique identity. The craftsmanship of the various collections is an art form in itself.
Shooting Rick Owens was by far one of my favourites, the collection was inspired by 700 million-year-old jellyfish and his recent trips to Egypt. It felt otherworldly and as if one had been transported to another time and space. Arriving at Palais de Tokyo with the Eiffel Tower just across from the river Seine, the view will never cease to amaze me. The smoke machines and giant water fountain sprayed shoots of water up into the sky - creating rainbows which made it even more majestically grand and magnificent.
Another show that I thoroughly enjoyed was Ludovic de Saint Sernin. It was set in an abandoned building on the outskirts of Paris. The backstage setting had lots of interesting elements to shoot within - a peek of natural light trickling in through a south-facing window. This was the mood I was drawn towards. The models had an androgynous way about them where gender fluidity and an essence of confident sexuality shined throughout the backstage atmosphere. The use of different textures and materials added to what seemed to be an interesting perspective that Ludovic de Saint Sernin had on the shapes that could be created within the human form. Unconventional and seeing the body as a canvas for individualised sexuality.
A few other standouts from this season was the Balenciaga show with Denma’s statement being about “digging for the truth and being down to earth” - with the show being set in actual mud. It was absolute genius. Another standout was Coperni’s finale with Bella Hadid’s slip dress being spray painted live on stage. I also loved Coperni’s show statement, “It’s our celebration of women’s silhouettes from centuries past,”. It reminded me of the McQueen shows that took place in the 90’s - it wasn’t just a fashion show, but had an added element of surprise and live art.
Then one last thing... Michaela Stark. She was an absolute sweetheart. It was such a pleasure to meet her and to work on such a fun little collaboration for Perfect on the streets of Paris. I really love what she’s doing and she’s an inspiration to so many young designers out there. Her confidence and charm was charismatic in the most aspiring way. Whilst we were shooting, she even attracted a massive crowd of paparazzi which was hilarious.
Photos by Jess Segal