Kris Van Assche retells 18 years of design language and self-discoveries with his newest book.
Kris Van Assche has always had a strong sense of knowing his design language. As someone finding himself at the Antwerp School of Fine Arts, he was no stranger to taking risks. Graduating and moving to Paris in the late 1990s, Van Assche became Hedi Slimane’s first assistant during his Yves Saint Laurent tenure, later moving to Christian Dior to develop his ideas in menswear, bringing him to stay nearly 15 years at the brand, later becoming Creative Director.
Alongside a very successful understanding of the Dior man, the designer also launched his own line which became an expression of his very personal thoughts about design. Collating all of his design adventures in his career into one space, Kris Van Assche remembers each step of the way, with feelings of reflection, allowing him to teach his wisdom and deep understanding of the industry onto the younger generations of talent.
Discussing his year of reflections, Kris Van Assche talks to Perfect about what it means to stop and think back upon 55 collections filled with layers of personal meaning, and how this project allowed him to enter a new step of his life, more confident and determined than ever.
Angel: What was the starting point in the decision to create a book of your 55 collections?
Kris Van Assche: In August of last year, Belgian publisher Lannoo reached out with the proposal of doing a book about my work covering my career so far: my own Kris Van Assche brand, but also Dior and Berluti. 18 years in total of non-stop working. I had never been so keen on looking back; a designer is only as good as his next collection, and at the speed of 2, 4 or 6 collections a year, there had never been much time for that. Last August all at once seemed like the perfect timing.
I have always collected books from artists and other designers – I love books – so the idea of making one of my own had obviously crossed my mind. Also, with much more free time on my hands, my brain had already started a process of self-inspection. It’s an automatic thing. I had been the designer of my own, small independent brand for 11 years, the creative director for the mega-brand Dior for 11 years also, and 3 years for the more confidential, artisanal “luxury pearl” Berluti.
I was questioning what I would like to do next, where to position myself within these 3 very different directions. Doing the book made me understand the clear links between those different collections, and see how everything connects. I now realize my “Berluti Man” is actually much alike my “Kris Van Assche Man”, he simply looks much more expensive (laughs). It is something I had never thought of so much.
Angel: Looking back at all of your work throughout the years for your namesake label, Dior Homme and Berluti, what are the feelings associated?
Kris Van Assche: Looking back on 18 years of work was an emotional roller coaster. I feel extremely lucky seeing all the incredible people I have had the chance to work with. It’s great to see them all together in one book. It is what I have always loved most about my job: being able to connect and interact with other creatives. I remember buying my first book on Paolo Roversi; I now have my portraits taken by him on the cover of this book.
Thinking of the campaigns I did for my brand, be that with Alessio Bolzoni or Jeff Burton – very different; both were so creatively free and it makes me proud I was able to do that. Seeing all the great campaigns with Willy Vanderperre for Dior and the incredible talents we associated, from Belgian artist Rinus Van de Velde, to Larry Clark, Boy George, Rami Malek and A$AP Rocky, of course.
They formed an unexpected fresh community for the brand. And the artists I was able to collaborate with at Berluti: Brian Rochefort and Lev Khesin… I love how many of these artists contribute testimonies to the book. It allows for different layers of comprehension, different points of view on a specific show or photoshoot.
Angel: How do you think a designer's position has changed throughout your time? What is different now? Is it better?
Kris Van Assche: Unintentionally, the book ended up describing the changing codes and values of menswear fashion in general for the last two decades. As Anders Christian Madsen writes in the introduction: “sets get bigger, sneakers get bigger, and celebrity and character-driven marketing takes center stage”. In 2005, when I had my first Kris Van Assche show, there wasn’t so much of a menswear fashion week.
All that evolved so much and I was evolving with it. And enjoying that evolution, I must add. I have always felt the different ways of communicating, be that through shows, sets, editorials, campaigns, social media, … were as many ways of being able to tell my story. Of course, with so much “fast communication” going on now, there is a need for real, in-depth journalism and storytelling. That is another good reason to make a book.
Angel: You have recently started mentoring students, how has this experience changed you?
Kris Van Assche: An Vandevorst, who is head of fashion design at Polimoda, asked me whether I would want to mentor the Masterclass of Creative Direction. I have enjoyed the experience a lot over the last two years, as it was very complementary with the self-evaluation I was already going through.
I wanted to connect with the young generation and experience their point of view on the job, share my experience and feed off their reaction. Remember why I wanted to become a fashion designer in the first place. I had a great time doing so, but decided two years was enough. That period is somehow closely connected to the fact of making the book and reflecting on the past and future. As the book is now finished, I also closed the chapter of mentoring students, for now.
Angel: What do you look forward to, both professionally and personally?
Kris Van Assche: The book made me realize what it is exactly I love so much about fashion, and so obviously, I want some more. I am waiting, be that a little impatiently, on the right project to dive into.