Ulla Johnson is all about things completing full circle in SS24.

The circle. Harmonic. Simple. Complete. Full of possibilities. For Spring 2024, Ulla Johnson turned to the circle for inspiration, citing it in her show notes “as a quintessential, divine form of nature, an artistic archetype that represents the cyclical harmony of energy.” Esoteric to read, but sartorially the circle concept well suits the pretty, feminine aesthetic that has won Johnson legions of devoted supporters.

In addition to harmonious geometry, Johnson hinted at an aquatic motif, particularly via her set, which featured spiraling nautilus floor murals and shell-beaded hanging curtains. Shells also made an appearance in several jewelry pieces handcrafted by the designer’s long-standing partners in Kenya. Other accessories drew from beachy classics– strappy sandals; frou-ed up slides; understated, oversized tote bags – but in accordance with Johnson’s meditation on harmony, will do crossover duty for citified pursuits.

Johnson’s penchant for prints felt more audacious than ever, bold chevrons, warp dyes and geometrics delivered with a deftness that kept their eye-catching flair on the right side of sensory overload. The designer worked with Brooklyn-based artist Shara Hughes, the first such collaboration for the brand. Hughes’s high-intensity landscape paintings served as source imagery for a compelling series that included the show’s opener, a ruffle-shouldered dress with a plunging neckline.

Several looks featured rosette accents, another nod to the circle motif that Johnson maintained throughout without gimmickry – and without surrendering a trace of the reality factor that’s core to her brand philosophy. Nor did she skimp on craftsmanship and decorative extras, incorporating plenty of hand-crochet, paillettes, tulle appliques into her lineup. It all made for an impressive collection – a lovely parade of the wearable, alluring clothes that delight her customers, accented with just the right flourish and bravado. In that regard, it was as brilliantly complete as, well, a circle.