Diesel’s denim experimentation takes centre stage for AW22.
Teasing the DIESEL show two days before the event, Glenn Martens enacted light drones in the sky, recreating the iconic DIESEL logo in front of world capitals, almost like a bat signal. After being appointed the creative director at the denim house in 2021, this was his second showcase, where we were able to witness Martens at his prime - fun, cool and independent.
Staging the show in the outskirts of Milan, the audience were greeted by inflatable characters doing provocative poses. The show, art directed by Niklas Bildstein Zaar, Kanye’s collaborator, brought out a gleaming sense of Diesel’s new identity - playing around with denim, bringing excitement and reflecting popular culture through one of the most classic wardrobe staples with a touch of outer space eleganza.
The spectacle on the first day of Milan Fashion Week oversaw new ways of looking at denim – through intricately cut oversized coats, zip up bomber-esque jackets and frayed denim version of tailoring, acid-washed at the hems for extra spice. By throwing all expectations away, Martens was able to open up the floor of experimentation and see how youth culture looks at denim nowadays – whether skin tight, fully oversized, or made up into a “denim fur”, there was coolness in every look, and a sense of open sampling of how far the infamous fabric can be taken.
Matched with leather belt logo skirts and Diesel embossing all around, there was a brilliant mixture of modern logomania and meticulous technique, solidifying the idea that Diesel is not about catching up to trends, but all about carving their own position in the fashion market, reclaiming their power on popular culture.
