Gabriela Hearst Salutes Sappho in Gold and Black

There were some heady goings-on at Gabriela Hearst. Her show notes opened with a think piece by Stanford professor Emanuele Lugli on the Greek poet Sappho (yes, the lady from Lesbos). Hearst’s interest in the poet was prompted by her daughter, who wants to be Sappho for Halloween. (The high-minded history lesson may have reminded the few remaining elders in the audience of Mary McFadden’s long-ago show musings. Each season she would describe inspiring aspects of this or that ancient civilization, which would all somehow manifest very similarly, into her signature Fortuny-esque pleats.) 

Hearst was also inspired by her own artwork – an abstract gold-and-black based collage she created in the spring, the impact of which resonated more strongly after a trip to the Dia Beacon, where she saw works by Imi Knoebel. 

It all came together on the runway in a celebration of female power, a topic front-and-center in the minds of so many women these days. To heighten her message, Hearst enlisted the Resistance Revival Chorus, a group of female and non-binary performers, who were fabulous, and as models, a number of personal friends. Bold staging choices – and challenging ones. Particularly the Chorus, whose graceful movement-in-place performance made for compelling viewing, distracting a bit from the main event, the clothes. 

They were strong, particularly the opening series that worked a glam warrior vibe, with gold leather breastplates affixed to linear black gowns. Tailoring also featured prominently, with some looks detailed with metal-bar edging. And Hearst loves a good knit, for ease and because she can highlight regional craftwork. From Manos del Uruguay, a nonprofit that supports women artisans, she commissioned great-looking, casually dramatic ponchos in citrine and orange cashmere. Conversely, a black double-knit tank and pants with demonstrative “fire crochet” insets running down the front worked the decorative impulse to a dizzying degree.