Grace Jones, hiking boots and American poetry: the Dior menswear universe, mapped by Kim Jones
“So Just Keep Rolling Under the Stars” was the main message heard at Kim Jones’ presentation for Dior’s AW22 menswear show in London. The excerpt was taken from Jack Kerouac’s wanderlust novel “On The Road” - a main source of reference and inspiration for Jones’ collection where the American spirit of sportswear met Kerouac’s lust for exploration.
The collection made its runway debut in London on Thursday, where the British designer drew upon his major passion for literature and poetry (first seen during his Fendi Couture SS21 debut presentation in January).
In parallel to Christian Dior’s fervour for travel and exploration, “On The Road” drew upon the newly found excitement after a long two years of restrictions, engaging with the senses with a collection that marries the collegiate look with the hiking enthusiast in a elegantly defined rendition of the layers behind the modern man.
Hiking boots and diamond patterned socks meet black flowing blazers and graphic printed shirts alongside nylon shorts in the designer’s interpretation of Paris meets the American Sierra in a universe where menswear is experimental on all terrains. Alongside his signature tailoring, reimagined through bias cut tweed jackets, plaid shirts and skinny ties were given the modern makeover, styled into Jones’ version of the American uniform including the perfect mid-wash denim.
Alongside the utilitarian browns and greens, Jones had fun with throwing in a sense of sparkle and combining knitwear and sequins, for a camp remake of the winter sweater.
Presented at the Kensington Olympia, in his hometown, Jones included young designers and local artists, as well as fashion students in the audience, amplifying his continuous message of the importance of youth culture, similar to Kerouac’s message in the 1950s of pushing and connecting with the youth of today. The afterparty saw a rare and ecstatic performance by the iconic Grace Jones, and her new wave R&B nature, bringing Kim Jones’ modern French American dream full circle.
Writer Angel Nemov.
