Jason Wu’s Power of Pretty SS23 NYFW : The designer believes in the importance of dressing up

For most people, weddings are the ultimate dress-up occasion. In the United States, weddings are back big time, and women are dressing for them, as they are for other festive events now popping up as life continues to normalize post-pandemic. That makes this a golden moment for Jason Wu. An ardent optimist, he has always believed in the power of pretty, and for spring he marshals it to lovely effect.

In his program notes, Wu said he was inspired by the “iconic American designers.” He didn’t name names, but likely referred to the ready-to-wear maestros known back then as “social designers.” Led by Bill Blass and Oscar de la Renta, they catered to their tony clientele from 550 Seventh Avenue, for decades the American Garment Center’s epicenter of chic design.

This is a collection meant to leave the house, refined evening fare for ladies who love the act of dressing us almost as much as they love the reason for it – to get out and enjoy people.

Wu offers options for everything from casual dinners to grand evenings. A lowkey night out might call for a sheer T over walking shorts, or a pristine white coatdress with sheer insets. But mostly, Wu’s ladies love a glamour dress, and he gives them plenty. A few constructed looks nod to the Fifties; more unfettered options include a series of bold florals done in collaboration with artist Leonardo Pucci. Many looks derive from lingerie: slips; off-the-shoulder dresses secured with skinny straps; camisoles atop hip-draped pants; gowns with exposed corsetry, some hand-tucked and ruched. Nothing here is cutting edge; rather, these are graceful clothes that whisper rather than should their points of interest.

Wu doesn’t think they should for a wedding. “If the last two years have taught us anything, it’s that these [special] moments are fleeting,” he says, “and every second should be celebrated.”