Michael Kors puts his elegant signature centre-stage for AW22.
This was a curious show for Michael Kors. While the clothes couldn’t have been more signature, the presentation itself felt a bit off-brand. Kors has long been a 10-a.m. guy, often showing against the bright sunlight streaming through Spring Studios’ vast windows; last season, he showed outside at Tavern on the Green. And he typically enlists performers within the Broadway-Broadway adjacent range – Ariana DeBose (she sat front-row this time), Sara Bareilles, Rufus Wainwright; Barry Manilow, and for an offbeat touch, Orville Peck. So this season, 8 p.m. just off the West Side Highway seemed un-Korsean, as did musical guest Miguel, who thrilled with his unexpected repertoire of Prince covers. As for the crowd, night or day, Kors’ ladies turn out.
Here, along with DeBose, Blake Lively and Brooke Shields sat front row. So did a newcomer to NYFW, NYC’s relentlessly energetic and visible mayor, Eric Adams. They took in a high-chic lineup with an emphasis on tailoring, monochromatic dressing and an attitude of luxe, luxe, luxe. Day focused on menswear-derived fabrics rendered in relaxed proportions, with sensual knits and racy dresses in the mix. While Kors worked mostly in neutrals – he loves camel and a natty tweed – he inserted jolts of vibrance in looks such as a marigold pantsuit and raspberry cape/coat hybrid over turtleneck sweaterdress.
Great coats anchored many of the looks and ranged from menswear standards to divine retro clutch versions to an indulgently wide tweed puffer – not quilted, just inflated. And while Kors swore off fur a few years ago, he still loves shearling and showed plenty, in versions both natural and audaciously not – fuchsia and bright yellow. For evening, perhaps in the spirit of the Olympics, he went for steamy second-skin beauties with athletic-wear roots. As for a surprise factor, there wasn’t one. This was just Kors at his signature best. Which is pretty terrific.
