Paco Rabanne AW22: the heroïne travels through history to meet in the future.
At Paco Rabanne, the study of the heroïne merged both historical and contemporary meanings into a beautiful sensory symbiose of time and elegance. Julien Dossena brought the renaissance and modern woman together through ruffles and flowing basques in high-shine signature Rabanne silver and metallic gold.
Dossena heightened all senses with the colourfully muted space that switched between lilacs and pinks to intense reds, morphing the feeling of dusk to dawn. Stepping out to a meditation soundtrack, the designer wanted everyone to stop for a moment and morph themselves into the fashion and the Paco Rabanne approach of cinema storytelling through tactility of fabric and colour. The answer was imminent – this was a woman who floats through time and gathers the feeling of each period. From the beginning of Renaissance fashion, through the hyper stylised 90s into the sleek minimalism of the 2020s, she takes and crafts those references into a contemporary protagonist in her own novel.
Volume and texture was a key part within the collection where oversized Renaissance-esque sleeves and gatherings at the waist are met with sharp-shaped shoulders, bringing juxtaposing silhouettes together, travelling through different eras. There is also a feeling of shy fetishism with metal mesh and knit brought together into a single garment, signifying the complex, often juxtaposing nature of your own feelings in life.
The unique approach by Julien Dossena at Paco Rabanne is one that plays in its own field, as the designer stays true to his interpretation of the Francisco Cuervo DNA, whilst injecting part fantasy, part history, part futurism into a layered fairytale where you are in charge of the plot.
