Tory Burch takes it to the skies for AW22.
Tory Burch showed in a high-in-the-sky space in Hudson Commons, its towering windows offering spectacular views of New York at night. Across the street, the iconic New Yorker Hotel had reset its famous neon banner to read: “The New Yorker (Heart) Tory.”
This majestic take on Gotham – sky view; the night city illuminated in all its never-sleeps glory – was very different than that which Burch depicted last season, when she installed a charming street fair on Mercer Street as the backdrop for her lineup of relaxed dresses that paid homage to trailblazing American sportswear designer Claire McCardell. That collection was all about charm, approachability, and connectedness. This one was about authority and command.
In her program notes, Burch acknowledged a “heightened sense of luxury,” but the difference didn’t stop there. She was inspired by New York’s “unique characters” whom she viewed through the “lens of shape, geometry, color and convertibility.” She utilized those elements to create pieces that will aid women in expressing their individuality with a new level or sophistication. Outerwear was a focus, often in roomy, colorful toppers, or long jackets cinched with deep belts over full skirts. There were athletic and retro references, the latter including pleated trousers, the versatility of which Burch flaunted in takes registering from working-woman chic to ultra-sporty. She inserted an artful current with interesting tailoring, for example, the mannish suit reimagined with a strapless jacket and single wide chiffon strap, and jeweled T-shirts layered atop skinny turtlenecks and full skirts.
The show closed with a group of jersey dresses in abstract collages of color. With their precise configurations, these beautifully telegraphed the designer’s stated goal of enhanced luxury. Of course, luxury is a crowded field, dominated by European brands led by men. Burch launched and has brilliantly nurtured her brand within the realm of affordable luxury. If she intends to fully trade up in market position, it will be interesting to watch her negotiate the course. She is a savvy, determined lady.
