Ulla Johnson: The designer worked froth and craft to strong effect NYFW

Guests arriving at Ulla Johnson’s show at the Brooklyn Museum’s Beaux-Arts Court came upon an indoor wild garden, a thicket of branches near the entrance and patches of densely packed flowers in freeform shapes blanketing the floor.

The enchanting flora designed by Emily Thompson didn’t transform the grandeur of the space, but rather created an ecosystem in which perceived opposites coexist in exquisite harmony. Such is the case with Johnson’s clothes – romantic, for sure, yet also powerful, their flamboyance announcing a woman with a strong sense of self. She wants to be seen and dealt with, and she wants to look pretty while doing so.

To realize that alchemy, Johnson focuses on creating memorable dresses in high-interest materials. For spring she was inspired by Lee Krasner and Louise Bourgeois, particularly the latter’s book Ode à l'Oubli. These references manifested in a joyful lineup of color, pattern and craft. Some looks all about romance, with floaty fabrics and froth in ample measure. Others worked an urbane bohemian vibe, whether in multi-color artisanal knits or moody ikats. Conversely, a yellow broderie anglaise charmer winked at the Sixties.

Johnson’s penchant for decorative flourish works beautifully at night. this season’s frocks included a tiered, flounced minidress and short, and a saucy trapeze bubble. And this season Johnson moved deeper into evening with a voluminous dusty pink ballgown with strapless poufed bodice .

Still few women wear dresses 24/7, and Johnson offered some appealing separates. Her demonstratively proportioned tunics and mile-wide pants delivered sportif with a side of drama. Johnson also recolored some time-honored classics, working a trench in green over matching trousers, And she paired purple jeans with a gentle puff-sleeved blouse, adding a deft touch of romance to the ultimate standard.