Y/PROJECT teases what’s to come for Glenn Martens and Jean Paul Gaultier’s couture collaboration.
As Y/PROJECT presented their new collection in a logistics centre on Thursday, Glenn Martens brought out colour and morphing bodies as the main element du jour. The collection opened up with a Martens signature redesigned black jumpsuit that curved in the legs whilst rising up to give a straight oversized masculine cut in the shoulders. With the Belgian designer, shape takes on a different meaning, and this season it was all about dichotomies of shape – draped oversized layers of chiffon on crop tops and low-waist skirts, giving a lot of skin, and layers.
Masculine fit oversized coats in both bright reds and subdued browns were also belted with scarves and shape-hugging belts to morph the body into a curve, followed by lots and lots of layers in typical Y/PROJECT fashion. Furthermore, winter’s beloved accessories, the balaclavas got a spruce of colour morphing from greens to blues into oranges, followed by knitwear giving the illusion of layering. As the collection approached its climax, the piéce de resistance was the reimagined trompe l’oeil dresses created in collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier, referencing some of his most iconic Spring 1996 and Venus De Milo collections, hinting at what’s to come to couture next week with the JPG x Y/PROJECT collaboration.
With Glenn Martens, shape is king, especially when combined with colours that shine and give power to the imagination and towards the idea of morphing into any silhouette, or character, you may desire.
