Lawrence Steele is redefining ASPESI into the future.
Lawrence Steele is a seasoned veteran in fashion, having had a career spanning across the most powerful Italian fashion houses in the 21st century with the likes of Moschino, Prada and Marni. His curious eye led him to move to Japan in his early days after graduating from college in the US, and later on moving to Milan after a work trip made him fall in love with La Dolce Vita. Steele’s work at ASPESI spans over 13 years, having grown with the Italian heritage brand and its regeneration throughout the decades, mirroring fashion’s journey throughout the ‘00s.
Being appointed Creative Director for ASPESI in 2021, the brand’s first ever at the position, Lawrence Steele speaks to Perfect’s Milan Fashion Director Edward Buchanan about his unconventional journey in fashion and the new chapter in his career, re-shaping the future of ASPESI.
Edward Buchanan: You seemingly have the perfect job. You are a seasoned professional and so far you have had an incredible career having worked for Prada, Moschino and Marni. Tell me more about your experience and how you began working with ASPESI?
Lawrence Steele: Growing up, my family always lived abroad and moved between countries constantly, because my father was in the military. When I turned 13 we were able to move back to the States and I was able to go to art school there. Living for so long in Italy, I was able to see the great history of ASPESI and understand that it is an “outsider” brand. It is a fashion brand that is known and worn by people in the industry, who appreciate the Italian knowledge about living “la dolce vita” and embrace that philosophy. Working as an outsider in an outsider brand, I am able to fit in very comfortably and see things from the outside with a different perspective.
Edward Buchanan: It’s hard to be chic, and you have an amazing way of handling restraint, both for yourself and ASPESI. How would you describe it?
Lawrence Steele: I think it has to do with my military background, I grew up on air force bases and the uniform that everybody wore was a facade and standard in which you can perceive the person and their history. Seeing this aesthetic always reminded me of how powerful dressing and fashion could be. I personally am looking for the most iconic archetypal item, and uniforms are that for me as they are such a straightforward piece and the numerous interpretations carry-over in so many ways. Being chic is something that has to do with your personality, because you can wear anything and be chic. Italy is the definition of chic, because even when you are talking about food, there is a sense of elegance and chicness about it.
Edward Buchanan: In the release of this collection you mention that “The tools offered by ASPESI are archetypes. Archetypes have the power to evolve over time, remaining truthful to their original value.” How do you interpret that?
Lawrence Steele: By being an outsider and learning so many different cultures, I think that I have carried over the understanding of what is the same and what is different about all of us across the world. When you can see on the outside what makes up the core of the human being, you see connecting elements and I like to bring that back to fashion and share what makes up the perfect frame for identity. I am interested in the humanity first and then bring the elements of colour, fabric and silhouette together.
Edward Buchanan: You were part of a great number of high-brow fashion houses in the ‘90s, in the time that their legacy was being built. How has that informed the work that you do today?
Lawrence Steele: I arrived in Milan and met with Moschino almost immediately, and we hit it off and started working together, having a sense of the right place and the right time. He was incredibly brilliant in doing something completely different, which really intrigued me. Later on, as I was working for Franco (Moschino), I met Mr. Bertelli and through conversation he offered me a position with him. I have been very lucky to never classically “search” for a job, just by being at the right place at the right time. I have worked aside incredible people, gaining so much inspiration. I also am very militant when it comes to work and that discipline combined with talking to such figures has allowed me to experience great things and understand my personal touch within fashion. I have always tried to apply the thoughtfulness and personality that is very malleable and thematic, and always pushing towards what else I can put into my work.
Edward Buchanan: You are an African American who has been living in Milan for a very long time, do you still feel like an expat or do you believe you have adopted the Italian sense of identity?
Lawrence Steele: It really depends on the day! (laughs). If I hang out with my fellow Americans, there is a specific part of me that comes out to the surface, and I am prone to getting into symbiotic relationships. I love being a foreigner and outsider, because it gives me a perspective of study towards elements and details that I can explore with my work. Having chosen Italy and being here for so long has been such a great experience, alongside the culture of food, nature and leisure. I lived in Japan before moving to Milan, which had a very specific and serious culture attached to work, and I used to fly into Italy to buy fabrics. I would always compare the two, and it became an easy choice that I wanted to spend my time in Italy.
Edward Buchanan: With Covid, you haven’t been able to travel and move around, would you say that it has affected your process of creativity?
Lawrence Steele: The good side of things was that Italy has been quite slow in bringing technology towards fashion and the creative fields, which now allowed for us to explore more innovative ways of implementing it and understand the Italian fashion tradition through a contemporary context. It hasn’t been a sacrifice staying indoors, as I am a hard worker and could work non-stop. This job has given me everything, and has helped me grow into the person that I am by creating friendships from all over the world, and working alongside industry titans.
Edward Buchanan: You are the very first appointed Creative Director of ASPESI since its beginnings in 1969, overseeing all categories. What does this mean to you, and what is the pressure you hold on your shoulders?
Lawrence Steele: ASPESI is a very traditional brand, part of the Northern Italian culture and loved by people in a way that is very personal, so there is a big responsibility in not messing it up. I have incredible freedom in taking ASPESI where I always wanted to take it, and having earned this position throughout my long history with the brand and understanding exactly what the DNA is. I still remember how for years I used to pray and hope that I would be able to lead this brand, and I fully believe that the universe and karma brought it all together.
Edward Buchanan: You have mentioned that you design clothes for people, therefore your styles move across womenswear and menswear in a fluid way. How important is identity to you?
Lawrence Steele: I think identity as a concept is very important. I personally see myself as a hologram with so many different influences and parts to myself. My idea is to make things that someone can see themselves in and to express yourself through something I have created for that individual. It’s all about choice and freedom, and that particularly comes from my expression and play with fashion. I believe it’s so important to create a vocabulary that is fluid, removing gender from clothing and rather implementing other terms and language to describe fashion.
Perfect Fabric?
It is one that you can do everything, so I have to say cotton poplin. Skirts, jackets, dresses, you can do everything in it!
Perfect Workplace?
I work in my head, so wherever I am! I would also say wherever my team is, because I always voice the story and the inspiration behind it.
Perfect Place in Milan?
My own house. I absolutely love having my own space that has so much light and airiness. Outside of that, any trattoria or the Duomo.
Perfect Piece in Your Men’s and Women’s Collection?
The trenchcoat. Coming from a military background, the feeling and history of it means a lot to me. That, and the double breasted coat.
