GINA GRNW’s eclectic and colourful world of eco-conscious design.

Gina Grünwald is committed to creating a colourfully embellished world. The London-based designer started experimenting with upcycled plexiglass offcuts during her time at Central Saint Martins, leading to the very beginnings of her brand GINA GRNW, focusing on a positive impact fashion that is bold and fun. In her universe, there is clear determination and vision on how knowledge of materials and innovative techniques come together to shape the next direction of fashion design.

Speaking to Perfect, Gina reveals how attending fashion school during the pandemic shaped a unique sense of self-sufficiency and how her environmental consciousness and love for unconventional materials and techniques has helped shape her own position within the fashion industry.

Perfect: What was your initial inspiration behind the DNA of your brand?
GINA GRNW: Our world is in a constant state of emergency therefore I wanted to build a brand that operates as a social business whilst promoting clever design solutions towards a greener tomorrow. With GINA GRNW, I offer an alternative platform with a strong focus on sustainability that challenges the destructive mainstream world of fast fashion. GINA GRNW merges fashion with social, political and environmental activism which allows me to continue my work as a disrupter. I strongly believe in telling stories through the language of fashion whilst fighting for much needed change within this complex industry.

Perfect: What was it like attending fashion school during a pandemic? Was it difficult to stay inspired remotely?
GINA GRNW: It was, and still is, a real challenge, especially mentally. For example, I have been struggling with the fear of missing out on opportunities because of the simple fact that I am not physically present in London. I have also been feeling out of touch with my CSM community. Normally, all of us work side by side in our fashion studios, day and night. Tutors, technicians, fellow students – we push each other to outgrow ourselves. I definitely miss that positive pressure. However, recreating a stimulating work environment in Zurich, where I was born and raised, helped me focus on my projects. Ironically, it was my roots that eventually delivered the inspiration I needed.

Perfect: What is the process of creating like?
GINA GRNW: Very playful at first, but extremely focused once I have a clear idea in mind. Building my own universe is the most satisfying thing, but it is also very intense. I am a one-woman-show. I have to do everything simultaneously: prototyping, material sourcing, production, setting up my online store, marketing, social media, handling stylist requests and more. It can get lonely, which is why I find it quite important to collaborate regularly with my talented friends and creative peers.

Perfect: What are the main struggles in creating a fashion brand nowadays?
GINA GRNW: Probably staying true to your brand’s values. I imagine that it can seem quite alluring at times to hop onto the next hype wagon, simply because you know that a certain trend is going viral and so will you. As for me, I am not interested in chasing what is already so obviously en vogue. I am more interested in exploring what is not yet in the open. I also think that what helps me staying on track is my clarity on what I want my brand to be. I highly recommend writing a manifesto for your brand, as this will help you focus on what really matters.

Perfect: Your SS22 collection features lots of playfulness with shaping and patterns, as well as lots of mixed materials. How long does the process from prototyping to Lookbook take for you? What are the difficulties with experimenting with materials?
GINA GRNW: I enjoy involving different techniques into my collections and do not like being locked into one field alone. Yes, I am a knitwear designer, but at the same time, I do love to constantly evolve my skillset by teaching myself new ways of making. This empowers me to uplift traditional craftswomanship while building bridges between the old and new, as I weave high-tech tools like 3D printing, laser, CNC and more into my creative practice. I guess I love machines, both digital and physical ones. Generally, I consider myself a very impatient person, but somehow, I can get lost for hours in learning how to operate new machinery or advanced programs. My attention to detail and pathological urge for precision seems to help as well.

Also, I am a hoarder of leftover material, waste and unwanted items. Both of my studios in London and Zurich are filled with neatly organised and labelled boxes, containing what I call the ‘real gold’. My material inspired collections endeavour to find innovative solutions to make sustainable fashion a reality. My experimentations with industrial waste for example demand long hours of theoretical and practical research before a prototype can be finalised. My zero waste Plex Bag, for instance, took several weeks to reach its current state.

Perfect: Sustainability is an important aspect of your business, how do you manage to keep the collections zero waste?

GINA GRNW: Flexibility is key. When working with waste as the main material for your collection, you need to stay flexible in terms of how you approach your design process, but that is precisely the beauty of a sustainable creative practice. You keep evolving on a daily basis. Let’s break down some of my SS22 looks: Look 4 consists of 90% old ties, donated by family and friends, upcycled in combination with outdated jewellery. The tailored jacket in Look 13 is completely made out of my dad’s Giorgio Armani suit, while carefully repurposing all functional details. And my closing look, the wire flower lace dress – shaped from upcycled wire, locally collected from industrial bins.

This might show you that I design unique pieces, complete one-offs. Mass production is not sustainable and not an option for me. I implement a made-to-order system to achieve a more sustainable production cycle so as to ensure that every fashion item and accessory fits the customer perfectly. I also maintain a circular studio practice, which means that nothing – literally nothing – is thrown away. I keep every loose end, all of my in-house offcuts. And in connection to that, actually, I also use specific zero waste pattern cutting techniques that minimise production waste.

Perfect: Growing up, what were your initial inspirations as an aspiring designer?

GINA GRNW: It is difficult to pinpoint specific inspirations but growing up within the Italian culture that strongly permeated our multilingual European household, fashion became more than a sole necessity. It became a vital part of expressing myself in everyday life. It dictates every situation – from grocery shopping to cycling to the beach to having dinner with friends. It is Italianità. I remember all of those countless visits, so much time spent in Tuscany. And the Italian Nonnas at my usual beach, styled from head to toe, playing cards while looking after their grandchildren. These women taught me what ageless grace and beauty means.

Perfect: How important is the culture around you in terms of inspiration?

GINA GRNW: Being based in London, I am surrounded by extremely talented and hard-working creatives, which is part of the culture of this hustle city. It pushes me immensely to go beyond what I thought was possible. What inspires me about being in London in particular is that I feel free to be who I am. I don’t have to explain myself, my fashion or my pink hair. It is this kind of freedom that inspires me to create fearlessly.

Perfect: Do you have a certain process of finding inspiration?

GINA GRNW: At the heart of every project stands my extensive material research. I search for local waste, industrial off-cuts, unwanted clothing or even studio leftovers that I have collected from past projects. The focus lies on bringing unexpected materials into my collections through the application of old and new technologies. As a knitwear designer, I get extremely stimulated by developing my own zero waste textile systems. Building them in the most sustainable way is a huge part of my design process and initial inspiration. What seems to be a restriction initially often turns out to be precisely what boosts my curiosity in terms of finding innovative solutions for current problems.

Perfect: What is your proudest career moment so far as a designer?

GINA GRNW: One of my most touching moments definitely is my first ever print issue. Robbie Spencer styled multiple of my pieces for More Or Less Magazine that were then photographed by Arnaud Lajeunie. Seeing my knitwear creations in a tangible paper format was such a surreal experience. I perceive it as an honour that they were selected, interpreted and put into context by such well-respected industry figures. And all of that while I am still an undergrad.

Perfect: What are the things you look forward to in 2022?

GINA GRNW: Endless summer nights. Vegan pasta at the beach. Travelling around. I’m also looking forward to doing some extensive research for my final collection at Central Saint Martins.

Perfect: Where do you see your brand growing in the next 5 years? How would you like to expand?

GINA GRNW: I do feel that my brand is at home in London’s fashion scene, however I imagine that the DNA of GINA GRNW would resonate with people in Asia or also the United States, which is why I believe that the brand could successfully enter the global market. As for my studio in London, I plan to build a team of people who are motivated and unafraid to push the boundaries within the field of sustainable fashion. I also intend to extend my product range – shoes, sunglasses, jewellery, interior design pieces, furniture - all of which should be stocked at established but innovative retailers. In addition, with GINA GRNW, I also want to work hand-in-hand with celebrities on their red carpet looks and create custom looks for big avant-garde shows. And a studio dog. I really want a studio dog.

Perfect: In conclusion, what lessons are you taking away from the last 2 years of your life, living and working under such different circumstances?

GINA GRNW: The pandemic was a wake-up call. I realised that there was no reason to wait until after graduation to start my own fashion brand. You cannot depend on any academic institution to help you reach your goals. You have to do it yourself.