Walter Chiapponi discusses his new, reflective outlook on the TOD’S creative process.
Walter Chiapponi has always had an elegant outlook on life and fashion. Getting his start working for powerhouses Valentino and Gucci, the fashion veteran has always understood how heritage and contemporary culture work together. After becoming the creative director of TOD’S in 2019, he has focused on bringing chicness back to the core of fashion, alongside looking out into how greater contexts shape the industry nowadays. His passion for creating timeless designs with a contemporary twist has allowed him to dive deeper into modern Italian art and search for inspiration for the future, by honouring the past heritage.
The new TOD’S AW22 collection dives into morphing past, present and future into beautifully crafted, signature designs that transcend through time in a bold and rebellious way that never loses sight of the craftsmanship and aesthetic mixed together. Chiapponi’s vision comes to life in creating a garment that is meticulously crafted with Italian heritage techniques, with a futuristic silhouette, bringing out fashion that stands the test of time.
Speaking to Perfect, Walter Chiapponi reflects on a thrilling year of headlining the Italian fashion house, and how his interaction with his team every day during lockdown helped him stay creative and inspired throughout in a new, reflective way.
Perfect: How would you describe your experience creating for TOD’S so far?
Walter Chiapponi: Creating collections for TOD’S has been challenging and exciting at the same time. TOD’S is such a monumental Italian brand, with a very strong heritage and essentially is part of my culture and life, being Italian myself. My goal was to take these strong Italian traditions and include them in modern designs that will live through the next century. It is a very exciting time, creating something that is so timeless at its core, yet also contemporary and modern.
Perfect: How has your creative process changed over the past 2 years? Do you see your process in a different light now?
Walter Chiapponi: My process definitely changed throughout the pandemic since I found myself being on my own much more, which led to a lot of thinking and reflecting. Being surrounded by my own four walls and my closest family friends could get distracting at times, so the change was more about staying focussed and finding inspiration. I always aimed to discuss my creative ideas daily with my assistant during zoom calls which helped in creating a strong bond between Tod’s and myself.
Perfect: This collection references Italian modern art and its timeless nature of modernity. Was there a specific work or artist that shifted your focus towards it?
Walter Chiapponi: When I first started thinking about the collection, I was actively looking at Italian art from the ‘90s, ‘60s and ‘70s, especially Michelangelo Pistoletto’s work. He was the master of that era and I really got inspired looking at his glass pieces, which show scenes of ordinary life printed on a mirror. I loved the idea of showing the collection between these pieces of art, reflecting the Italian lifestyle of then and now. The colours, the attitude, the coolness, all comes together through my collection infused by Pistoletto’s pieces. You can see the effortless coolness of Italian style, which I tried to captivate in my looks.
Perfect: How would you describe the TOD’S craftsmanship in 2022? Does it combine modern techniques with classic artisan processes?
Walter Chiapponi: I think you can describe it as a mix of 3D design and my relationship with the artisans. At every beginning of the collection it is important to talk with them and explore materials and shapes together. I get very inspired working closely with the artisans, and seeing the different techniques that can be used. We always find new ideas and solutions together, which in the end is reflected in the beautiful bags, shoes and ready-to-wear pieces. I think you can also really describe the Tod’s craftsmanship as a constant dialogue between tradition and modernity.
Perfect: How experimental is your approach for menswear?
Walter Chiapponi: I think where my experimental side comes alive is when I play with silhouettes and various materials. I like creating unsual surfaces and use untraditional fabrics. I think when it comes to the design I find myself starting with a stereotypical, traditional men’s style, which then evolves to a more modern design, using athelthic elements and vice versa. I usually like to play a game of opposites and merging them together.
Perfect: Creatively, what are your goals towards the brand in 2022?
Walter Chiapponi: My goal is to continue to push the boundaries of the Italian lifestyle and strengthen the Tod’s brand DNA. I would like to combine TOD’S tradtions with my creativity and form a nonchalant, dégagé and cool brand. All these words are used in my vocabulary daily and I think are key to my creations.
Perfect: What do you look forward to on a personal level this year?
Walter Chiapponi: I look forward to finding more confidence within myself and my work. My goal is to be very brave and creative this year. I am also very grateful to have all my loved ones around and am looking forward to creating more beautiful memories with them.
