Ed Buchanan’s AW22 Milan Fashion Week round up.
There was a cloud of doubt floating over Milano as preparation for the AW22 menswear season was taking shape. On January 4, The email dropped in my inbox regarding the cancellations of the men’s AW22 Giorgio Armani and Emporio Armani shows, as well as the SS22 Giorgio Armani Privé haute couture show planned for Paris. JW Anderson had planned to show in Milano as a guest of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, but opted for a digital show in lieu of a physical presentation. Safety first communications were being sent out from Pitti Immagine in Florence to assure that the visitors were absolutely not at risk and that although shows are irreplaceable, safety is the biggest priority. There were enough brands who insisted that the show must go on and five solid days of shows, presentations and events ensued. Let’s have a look back and dissect what transpired in Milano.
DAY 1.
The week started out with Alessandro Sartori’s rebranded ZEGNA collection opting for a video presentation in the Zegna headquarters in Milano. The mood was optimistic and energetically described as a new chapter for the brand. The epic video presentation started with picturesque views of Oasi Zegna, a mountainous nature park in the Biella Alps. The video was shown to a select group of journalists prior to the collection being unveiled to have a close-up look on models and mannequins. A detailed look at the collection definitely showed a concious retreat from the sartorial silhouettes that we were used to seeing with a more focused selection of soft tailoring and superbly articulated knitwear.
Dean and Dan Caten joyously slipped out front before the start of their DSQUARED2 show to personally welcome the attendees, and to confess how thrilled they were to finally welcome an audience back to a live show… and boy were we as happy to be there as they were, especially when we heard Ru Paul’s Call Me Mother blasting fiercely. The collection felt almost like a greatest hits selection for the duo which was so refreshing. Dean and Dan are among the few designers that can make illegal layering completely convincing. There were denims and plaids everywhere mixed with puffers, paillettes, and full jacquard knitwear layered with some of the most spectacular ponchos we’ve seen all week. Their Invicta collaboration showed up in hoodies and patchworked backpacks that pulled this skillfully eclectic mash up of great pieces into a happy clappy mountain outing.
DAY 2.
Designers Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto of JORDANLUCA wanted to speak on the difficult balance between anger and fragility. “AW22 didn’t happen in a vacuum. Rather, it’s a culmination of things much bigger than ourselves.” I think we can all find ourselves aligned with this sentiment and the mysterious and sensual collection they showed was reflective of the times in which we are living. The languid garments were almost dripping over the bodies all the way to the hem of the pants which were shredded and lingering behind the models as they glided. The merging of materials went from colour blocked nylon to oversized sweaters with large floral motifs and thorn-like spiked strands that lay gently around the necks. The ribbed gloves were friggin’ cool and there was a drippy chartreuse suit with a tonal sash and hood that was a stunner. It’s nice to see young designers that stay focused on a streamlined concept without the fear of having to speak to each and every consumer.
Lawrence Steele is just cool and the joy of him being cool is that he doesn’t even know it. Lawrence recently returned to ASPESI as the company’s first creative director in the brand’s history overseeing all categories after a stint as associate creative director at Marni. We had a chance to walk through the Autumn/Winter collection with Lawrence in the sun kissed showroom on Corso Venezia and we discussed his military family upbringing which drives his desire to travel even if he is absolutely comfortable in his home watching movies with friends. His restaint is powerful and his desire to just want to make normal clothing is impressive. The pieces are wardrope staples, but far from normal. These items are the things you want to have all the time, but perfectly articulated. The perfect grey melange ribbed cardigan with or without a padded lining, the perfect t-shirt (which he had on under his ever-so chic suit), the duster coat which he has colour and fabric blocked this season. Lawrence said he often fears what he is up against considering the history and the loyal customers that Aspesi has build since 1969, but if this collection is any indication of what the future will bring, I am absolutely certain that he will be perfectly fine.
FENDI was a full on lesson in luxe polish. When the smoke cleared Silvia Venturini Fendi’s parade of chiceries were lead with a classic Fendi monogram ball cap with a matching bag which was somehow like passing the baton to the newly minted “O ‘lock” Monogram. The new logo, fashioned in sheer calf high socks, breast pins, bag handles, and a nubby red, mocha, brown and cream coat, was the detail that linked it all together (pun intended). The Mary Jane shoes were slick, as was the fusing of a long skirt and a pant…maxi skort anyone? For evening, why not a mini tux capelet with high waisted trousers, or even a micro crock bag. This was without a doubt a collection to go out - the question is, where are we going?
DOLCE & GABBANA certainly also had occasion dressing on their minds when they invited Machine Gun Kelly to get the party, and the digital conversation, started from look one. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana said they were focused on their idea of what the new generation would like to wear, and the future of the metaverse. The result was a broad-range of silhouettes and details that ranged from the broadest shoulders, the puffiest puffers, the shiniest sequin, the boldest logos, and the furriest eco yeti boots. The running order was as eclectic as the collection as we travelled through ‘90s ravers, ‘80s club kids, 2000s graffiti’d skiiers, then we fast forwarded to 2021 as Machine Gun Kelly struggled to open his jacket mid runway because of his blinged and beaded gloves. When the jacket came off, the audience was there for all of his bedazzled and tattoed glory.
Day 3.
The day began waiting outside in the cold behind closed gates for the MAGLIANO show to begin. Although running quite late, I wanted to absolutely stay as I know first hand what its like for young independent brands to put on shows and bare the expense of impressing the same viewers that are reviewing established houses. The show took place in the Circolo Arci Bellezza which is a cultural and recreation centre. I was lucky to have had a seat where the lighting was in my favour because the atmosphere was based on a nocturnal awakening and the spotlights made it hard to see if you happened to be seated close to the back of the space. Luca Magliano collaborated with artist Michele Rizzo on the scenography which was set in an open space with a gold post bed in the middle of a somewhat dishevelled space with sparingly placed tables and decrepit lamps atop. The collection seemed interestingly familiar, and the pieces were cool and deconstructed. There was a real beauty in a bi-coloured beige nylon jacket over a blush coloured blazer with cotton cargo pants which seems normal, but somehow the beauty of these pieces is that they are exactly that…. normal. The models walked through the space in a circle often stopping in front of audience members with an intimidating frozen glance. Other standout pieces were a pink velvet shirt with collapsing pockets, and a pink slubbed 4 pocket raw cut Chanel-escque jacket.
New Delhi-based designer DHRUV KAPOOR presented his collection as a guest on the Milano calendar this season, and we were so happy to see him here. The collection was shown on static models standing on small black boxes in a studio space which made it easy to get close and see the defined details in his work. The collection was a study of handcrafted details new and old. There were knitted embroidered florals applied onto tailored suits with cropped trousers. Logo skin suits were used as a tone on tone layering piece under a quilted printed shawl, and a wave printed camp shirt and shorts based on ‘70s poster prints. While chatting with Dhruv, I was so impressed at how committed he is to working with local Indian artisans as much as he is also adamant about working sustainably within his means. 40% of the collection is made with disregarded materials. ‘Old is new’ again continues to be a urgent conversation in the young designer’s space.
ETRO showed in the vast lobby of Bocconi University in the centre of Milano. The show invites were miniature books, hence the location being a place where reading is absolutely fundamental. On top of it all, Bocconi is a private university which somehow speaks to the exclusivity that the brand represents. The floor was lined with striped swirves of multicoloured paisley in green, red, and purple. I was tickled when it happened that the colour of the models’ outfit matched the stripe that they were walking on. There was an absolute order to the collection and there were some great clothing that Kean Etro presented. There seems to be a refreshing departure and security in not only relying on the hallmark paisley, but offering solid and monochrome garments that rely on shape, and not just print or motif. The fluid mustard tie neck tunic and jogging pant was fresh and there are jacquard sweaters a plenty.
Last Autumn/Winter Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons presented the PRADA men’s collection digitally, and it was also the first co-designed collection for the pair. This season they were back to a live presentation and they invited a slew of celebrities with them to welcome us back. Kyle MacLahlan opened the show, and in between - without being distracted - we saw others like Asa Butterfield, Ashton Sanders, Louis Partridge, and even Jeff Goldblum closing the show. There were very strict codes in this season’s show. The strong shoulders that defined the opening navy wool coat on MacLachlan showed up in the line-up also as a flannel blazer, a pliable calf military belted trench, and even in structured wool sweaters fashioned at the shoulders to hold the shape. These strict shapes were contrasted with the boiler suit used as underwear and outerwear in silk or leather. The prints were used sparingly on a belted trench or a boiler suit, and also as a sliver or a jacquard detail peaking out at the top of shirts. Woollen furry cuffs were used as embelishment on tailoring, as well as on bomber coats, which also created a uniformity to the familiar shapes seen throughout the show. Like the collection details, there is a certain breed of celebrity that Prada can cast that not only makes sense for the brand, but maintains a certain intelligence and discretion that we continue to expect from them. SIDE BAR: the pea green carpet and chairs were a major situation.
DAY 4.
Veteran designer ANDREA POMPILIO started designing a capsule collection for Harmont & Blaine 6 months ago. This is his second capsule and the idea was to keep in line with the history of the Caserta-based company. “Travel has become so difficult in the past year that I wanted to talk about our love of traveling,” says Andrea. The Casentino-knitted sweat suits in delicious colours like lime were heaven, and the piece dyed padded patchwork separates you want right now. If Harmont & Blaine are smart they will keep this collaboration active because it’s creating the right steam.
CHURCH’S opted for an in store presentation with the backdrop of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, which is the oldest active shopping gallery in Italy dating back to 1877. There were new styles presented in the form of brogued sneakers with a rubber sole in Vitello Spazzolato, but the winners are absolutely the English classics.
KWAY staged a full runway presentation which honed in on the brand’s true DNA for crafting sound Nylon jackets and outerwear. The mix became interesting when the classic nylon was padded and mixed with Argyle pile, or bouclé knitwear. Geometrically quilted colour blocked bombers and skirts with the signature zip were also a standout.
Mark Van Beek, Global Head of Design for WOOLRICH, has his eyes on the prize. Mark presented a capsule collection in the showroom this season where he walked me through the beginning stages of his development and explained to me his future plans for the brand. “There are so many great things in the archives,” Mark stated. The starting point was outerwear, which is the foundation of WOOLRICH. Mark has plans to build the brand visibility and offering well beyond its loyal Italian customer base.
Massimo Giorgetti and MSGM have a new home in his Viale Piceno offices. The space was the former Bottega Veneta offices in the 2000s - pre-Gucci group era - but the space has been completely transformed to fit his vibrant ethos. The new MSGM collection that he presented via video and in show room appointments was true to form. There was irony in the mushroom jacquard pullovers and balaclava twin set, and the touches of trecking details in accessories and garments that we have seen in Milano this week has proven to be a common conversation. The fluo pink pant and green sneakers were well noted!
