AREA’s AW22 showgirls, inspired by Jean Arp.
Showgirls, as an archetype, an aesthetic, and a line of work with its own history and subculture, was the unifying inspiration of AREA’s presentation on Sunday. The designers interpreted the theme broadly, citing historical figures such as Zizi Jeanmarie and Josephine Baker as well as cultural events like Carnival in Brazil as references. The dual use of feathers in showgirl costuming as both light, insubstantial decoration as well as thick plumes of soft “armor for the body” inspired them to craft gilded, metal feathers to adorn the clothes. Butterflies, taken from vintage 1920s costume designs, were another running motif, appearing in as many different forms as masks, bras, headgears, necklaces, and more.
The most unusual aspect of the collection were the surprising dimensions on many of the dresses, modeled after shapes found in the work of artist Jean Arp’s painting and sculpture. One of these dresses was made with 84 differently colored materials, and took a total of 18 artisans a combined 4,150 hours to embroider. It is not immediately apparent if the design is one of flowers or feathers, figurative or abstract. The colors swirl around each other like dye dropped in a whirlpool; it seems to shift before the viewer’s eyes. The complexity of the design paired with the dress' unusual shape make it one of the collection’s most psychedelic, experimental pieces.
