Christopher John Rogers is at the end of the rainbow for collection 10.

For his tenth collection, the young CFDA winning designer Christopher John Rogers continued his delivery of looks sent down the runway in groupings based on colour. While he’s done the same in past shows, the signature rainbow palette stood out to me this time in particular for incidentally coinciding with Pride Month, in which New York City is inundated with similar patterning. However, many of the looks that were most arresting from this collection were those that incorporated the vibrant palette the least conspicuously, such as a black dress with five buttons in the front (one green, one yellow, one orange, one red, one violet) or a model whose two piece white gown made her hot pink lipstick stand out all the more, and vice-versa.

Elsewhere, scarves and sweaters threaded through the models’ arms and around their waists offered a way for accents of colour to interact with the main garments in unique ways. Oversized dress shirts billowing off the backs of models and grey suit jackets with neon green trim riffed on formal power dressing, reimagining it with an air of fun and ease. As his name becomes more and more widely known, Rogers continues to explore and test how he can repurpose his trademarks and carry forward a brand identity while also offering something new each season.

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Carlota Barrera returns to her fond childhood memories of Cuba for SS23.

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