Kim Jones and ERL proved that California ease and Parisian couture can come together for Dior Men SS23.
Ushering the sun rays reflecting upon the Pacific Ocean, Kim Jones brought Dior to Venice Beach on Thursday evening. The Spring Summer 23 collection ushered in a futuristically fantastic deep dive into the lesser-known archives of gilded glamour of Gianfranco Ferré’s time at Dior in the early 90s, specifically 1991. The year, not just a coincidence, was also the birth year of Jones’ newest collaborator - Eli Russell Linnetz, and the Californian ease of ERL, his eponymous brand. Before diving into fashion, Linnetz was no stranger to the creative world, as his creative portfolio spans from designing Kanye’s stage for his 2016 Saint Pablo tour, all the way to being Lady Gaga’s personal photographer, as well as collaborating with almost every talented musician across the globe. However, on Thursday, both Kim Jones and ERL had a larger statement on display - menswear’s phase of transformation.
No longer diluted, menswear has reached a converging moment of references and fluid conversations, with an intersection between history and a dash of curiosity of futurism. The opening look, an oversized silk satin suit in the classic Dior grey (with dashes of smoky lavender), turned inside-out with slouchy skater-fit trousers and wide sneakers, worn under a slouched grey wool coat - a gentle softness amongst traditionally masculine elements. ERL’s playful expression of colour amongst blush pinks, light creamsicle blues and young mint greens converged the Californian skater elements with airy, baggy shorts morphing into different textures, melangé tactile knits with widely open décolletés and an explosion of knitwear, with CALIFORNIA COUTURE all across.
The collection’s feeling was one of seemingly juxtaposed conversations, bridged together into a perfect myriad - a Californian relaxed tenderness of style converged with old-school Parisian haute couture heaviness and drama. Jones’ Ferré influences through the California baseball jersey tartan red overcoats cascading across the blue catwalk, or through the heavy gold belt-chains across Saddle bags that bridged the different generations of fashion into a playful statement – sharing what each one of us brings to the table, in order to create an excitingly open outlook for the future.
