Glenn Martens plays with twists and turns of the body for Y/PROJECT SS23.
Glenn Martens loves walking on the tight line between beauty and irony, marrying the two in a carefully crafted amalgamation of beauty. Twisting and turning each silhouette into a myriad of shapes, the designer’s SS23 collection was all about bringing the blown-out drama of couture into a ready-to-wear space.
Playing upon the versatility of garments, Martens experimented with protruding shapes such slouched thigh-high boots, combined with a “barely hanging” silk slip dress with asymmetrical straps. In other looks, waistbands were doubled and tripled, fastening upwards whilst hanging low to create a sensual illusion of flow that is held on, quite literally, by a thread.
Backstage, the Belgian designer spoke about his playful experimentation stating “I want people to experiment as much as possible with this collection, tie it, wrap it, thinking to yourself “How do I want to wear this piece?” and play as much as they can with it.” In addition to the curiosity of shapes, Martens also brought back trompe l’oeil denim from his Jean Paul Gaultier collection, this time with a bigger sense of irony through t-shirts and sweatshirts, showcasing an illusion of high-waisted jeans.
Additionally, middle finger earrings and transparent rain boots further brought a sense of supercharged, easygoing irony to the forefront, something that defines Glenn Martens alongside the meticulously thought-out silhouettes that reel you into a new world of silhouettes where garments take on multiple meanings in the individual universe of endless possibilities.
