Grace Kelly’s granddaughter Charlotte Casiraghi opens Chanel’s SS22 couture show on horseback.
Virginie Viard’s couture show was a transcendent exploration through time, beginning with the elements of the 1920s, reimagined in 2022. Constructivism could be seen as the core of the collection as all of the embroidery partners of Chanel came together and collaborated on it, in order to bring an elegant homage to the signature Chanel motifs and creation techniques that have solidified the couture collections for decades.
Charlotte Casiraghi opened the show on horseback, bringing a fresh reiteration on the classic Chanel tweed jacket with a black embroidered sequin version of it. Viard put emphasis on the shape and curve of the top half of the body with exquisitely constructed hourglass jackets with attention to the lapels, some of them beaded, others crystallised, bringing a sense of understated feminine sensuality with its light enclosures. Reimagined Mary Janes from the 1920s and 1980s were given a new approach in the classic two-tone cream and black Chanel combination. Towards the end, the collection became more and more compelling where sharp slits in white chiffon and silk on the lower half of the body met meticulously electric beaded sequins and embroidered intricate camellias and daisies.
For the set, Viginie Viard fulfilled a long desire of the fashion house, by collaborating with Xavier Veilhan. “His references to constructivism remind me of those of Karl Lagerfeld. I like this similarity of spirit between us, now and across time. In addition to creating the show décor with its references to the avant-gardes of the 1920s and 1930s, Xavier wanted to work with Charlotte Casiraghi. His artistic universe is full of horses and Charlotte is a skilled rider.”
Overall, Viard’s masterful approach to flow, airiness and detailed elegance can be seen through the extensive macramé, fringe and lace, and is a sign of excitement for a new beginning through spring and warmth, much needed from the world currently.
