Khaite revels in a class of contradictions for AW22.

Khaite’s collection, titled In Parallel, was an experiment in synthesising new ideas out of apparent contradictions in form. While much of the show’s aesthetic referenced classic rock and roll imagery (baggy leather jackets and blazers, dark, tinted sunglasses, a soundtrack of takes on rock songs from the ‘70s and ‘80s), the designer resisted total capitulation to nostalgia by integrating more contemporary, elegant, and sensual details.

The central question guiding the collection seemed to be, how does clothing design remain in conversation with its historic references and lineage while also attempting to do something new? How do the past, present, and future run ‘in parallel’ to each other? Khaite’s ultimate solution to this question was to attempt familiar forms with new materials, resulting in multiple textural and visual surprises. For example, the glossy black jackets captured light like water, possessing “the character of liquid or velvet.” Some form fitting dresses were covered by heavy, round, leather puffer jackets. Sparkling, open-back tunics in lavender and gold and a boldly ruffled bandeau top were followed by crocheted knitwear interwoven with Swarovski crystals. The collection was a clear expansion of Khaite’s vision, while also being indebted to its past.

Writer Amber Later.