Shayne Oliver is back in New York – under his own rules.
There’s perhaps no designer more “New York” showing at this year’s NYFW than Shayne Oliver, whose original label Hood By Air integrated the city’s local club and streetwear cultures into its unique aesthetic. This year, Oliver returned for a three night series of performances and presentations at the Shed under the banner of his collective and artistic development engine Anonymous Club. On the first night of NYFW, he debuted his first collection under his own name, SHAYNEOLIVER.
Immediately, entering the venue felt like entering a nightclub more than a fashion show. Heavy fog crawled through metal scaffolding to the sound of experimental dance music. When the show began, models walked directly through the crowd before exiting into a literal hall of mirrors. The new collection expanded on Oliver’s trademarks into even more fantastical territory.
Oversized, hooded silhouettes in black and silver were followed by four looks in white, accented by soft yellows and greens. Painted cloth wrapped around the models built upon simple white dresses in fascinating shapes. Makeup artist Pat McGrath transformed the eyes of models into budding flowers, while others wore hoods with horns poking out of the top, giving it the feel of a high fantasy rave. One model carrying a white rose passed it off with regal flare to an audience member beside me, like a princess in a fairy tale. The show recreated the experience of visiting a club and feeling transported to a new, magical universe, making it every rave voyeur’s perfect dream.
