Pieter Mulier’s rebellious beauty merges Alaïa’s sensual DNA for SS23.
Opening the doors to the future Alaïa Saint-Honoré boutique, Pieter Mulier unravelled the rebellious beauty of his mind, and the strong Alaïa DNA, merging together in synchronicity. Wanting to play further upon power-sensual dressing, Mulier opened the show with a single white pearl nipple piercing attached to an all-black catsuit, finished off with a chunky ankle cuff elongating into a perspex heel, letting the energy do all of the talking.
The collection further oversaw the joy of draping and ruching, something that the designer has begun analysing and experimenting more with, with a peculiar twist that wraps it all back to the 1980s and Azzedine Alaïa’s pioneership of celebrating women, crafting sculptures of confidence. Oversized, stacked pearl necklaces and protruding black feather heels were the touches of detail that sat atop draped inside-out denim skirts masterfully crafted to bring out the natural curves of the body. With Mulier’s work, the body is always the focal point of attention, whether in a meticulously structured oversized burgundy coat with gold finishing, or in an aqua light blue draped gown that protrudes upward into a black see-through bodysuit, one thing is clear - you are the main muse of your universe.
The looks were dripping with Alaïa history - a reinvented stiletto from Azzedine’s 1992 show, or a draping technique inspired by a 1984 collection, all with the guidance and craftsmanship of his atelier who were also celebrated for their tireless dedication towards the craft. With Mulier’s third collection wrapped up, one could examine a dedication to curiosity, reaching and researching archives, whilst also staying true to his modern-time vision, bringing together a design collective that continues to shape fashion in an architectural way, filled with compassion and collaboration.
