Julien Dossena crafts a modern-day armour for Paco Rabbane SS23.
Powerful dressing as modern day armour is what Julien Dossena brought forward during his SS23 show, as models stomped onto the gridded runway in a power walk that is all about reclaiming your power. Deeply invested in the ongoing political and social crisis in the world, the designer urged to bring forward an array of strong silhouettes, completed with Rabanne’s signature silver chainmail - both as headwear and layered on top within multiple silhouettes.
The collection’s array of hues were strong and confident - amalgamating monochromatics and deep reds and purples into a much heavier mood, ushering a sense of protective dressing, mixed in with soft baby pink tulle and organza that brings the inspiration and a reality check into present time - a dash of rebellion and punk, and a big middle finger towards a system that is stripping away women’s rights.
Backstage, Dossena discussed the ideas of radical sensuality, and this collection amalgamates a layered strength towards owning your own narrative through exploration of a sense of self seen through the mixture of punk eyelet details onto crinkled leather on top of lace-trimmed slip dresses, or a PVC coat embellished throughout with metal eyelet and chainmail details, topped off with a babushka-inspired headwear that merges womenswear in a historic timeline - the past, present and future merging to meet, fighting for equality harder than ever.
