WORDS: ON KARL x KENNETH IZE.
Karl Lagerfeld’s work for Fendi and Chanel helped him reign supreme over the little world of fashion. For decades, the legendary creator exemplified what it meant to be a fashion designer. As a matter of fact, he created the job – Lagerfeld was indeed the first to make a name for himself by working for companies that did not bear his own. Today, Vienna-based Nigerian fashion designer Kenneth Ize is doing exactly that with the Karl Lagerfeld brand, owned by private equity group Apax Partners since 2006. The company’s creative vision rests in the hands of close lieutenants of the Kaiser, including the ever so intimidating Head of Image & Communication Caroline Lebar, as well as Carine Roitfeld, now the brand’s Style Adviser. Both were decisive in welcoming the talented young designer, and such choice was seemingly in accord with the conversations around racism occurring in the fashion industry.
At first glance, Lagerfeld and Ize only have the first letter of their names in common. They are seemingly diametrically opposed. The former was a relic, the symbol of a bygone era of glorious fashion and parties, and the later is challenging a Eurocentric idea of luxury. But there are key similitudes too, especially noticeable through Kenneth Ize’s drive and sense of humour. And those qualities are enough to establish a clever conversation between the two entities.
At the Karl Lagerfeld headquarters, located in a beautiful Parisian townhouse on Rive Gauche, guests were welcomed by a branded espresso van and a five-star brunch buffet. There was champagne for those extravagant fashion people who would happily and innocuously guzzle a bit of bubbly at any time of the day or night. The building is full of Lagerfeld memorabilia. Paintings and photographs depicting the man and his iconic ponytail and sunglasses combo are everywhere. It feels, as if the man has never left, as if he’ll be back from lunch soon. The unchanged office resembles a museum exhibition. It’s sort of intense, but mesmerising.
Kenneth Ize successfully incorporated his cultural background into the collection, showcasing on clothing traditional patterns known as Uri (or Uli) originating from the Igbo people of Nigeria. It’s a cultural bridge although many will only think of them as random and possibly animal patterns. In fact, Ize’s outing is full of meaning. “For many designers, designing for Karl Lagerfeld would mean digging into the archive, but I think it’s not a modern approach. I wanted to bring my honesty and my own story into the brand, so I decided to write a letter to Karl and talk about pre-colonial Africa.” Ize saw this opportunity as a way to introduce himself as well as his values to the late Karl Lagerfeld’s world. “Whatever we do as Africans, we must remind people of our identity, of where we’re from,” said Ize who included inconspicuous nods to African culture within every piece he designed. “I also wanted the collection to be elegant and effortless,” Ize said before mentioning both Karl Lagerfeld’s and Mick Jagger’s wardrobe as secondary sources of inspiration.
In the end, the collection is a colorful and joyful journey. The young designer was free to play with Karl Lagerfeld’s legacy, the same way Karl jostled with Gabrielle Chanel’s. In that regard, the Kaiser couldn’t possibly roll in his grave, and if he did, then it means Kenneth Ize did a good job.
The collection is available now on karl.com
