WORDS: ON MARC JACOBS’S RETURN.
An American fashion hero is back. Marc Jacobs presented his AW21 collection in New-York City, more than a year after his magical AW20 show that included movement direction by choreographer Karole Armitage and a confident Miley Cyrus walking down the runway.
As the covid-19 pandemic dictated the world for months – and for the foreseeable future – Marc Jacobs paused the main collection, and he seemingly was the only one of such calibre to do so. During those months which felt like years, he became the ultimate influencer, showcasing branded outfits, fabulous hair, and painted nails to his 1.6 million Instagram followers. A whiff of freedom was in the air as discussions about redefining masculinity spread. The designer personified the idea of living in one’s truth.
In the meantime, fashion only pretended to halt. Conversations about the insane pace of the industry as well as the ridiculous amount of collections produced every year were in vogue, but brands kept on churning out collections, beautiful and ugly ones, but always lauded… The renewal that most expected, or hoped for, simply did not happen. Fashion conglomerates, despite suffering from closed boutiques worldwide, still managed to rake a considerable amount of cash. Money is flowing in the luxury sector, and the pandemic would surely not stop hungry consumers to shop online for clothes and bags and shoes to go from living room to bedroom, not to mention a vital kitchen stopover. The jolly, naïve, and cynical world of fashion kept going, thankfully because thousands of employees kept their jobs. That is a non-neglectable fact. What does this have to do with Marc Jacobs’s return? The brand is part of the biggest luxury group in the world, LVMH, founded and owned by Bernard Arnault who became the richest man in the world this year. LVMH reported a 44.7 billion euros revenue in 2020 and cited Marc Jacobs as one of the brands exhibiting “solid resilience during the year.” Although Marc Jacobs avoided presenting a SS21 main collection, he nevertheless endeavoured in new projects including Perfect, an intoxicating new fragrance telling the story of self-love and inclusivity. The designer also launched Heavn by Marc Jacobs in September 2020 in collaboration with one of fashion’s uber-cool personalities, Ava Nirui. The new line is a polysexual tribute to pop culture obsessions, which makes sense for Jacobs is a survivor of the MTV generation – the network itself has morphed into a reality TV-puking corporation instead of the cutting-edge music video channel it once was.
So, when Marc Jacobs announced that the AW21 collection would be unveiled during a physical runway presentation, every fashion enthusiast lost their marbles. The king was back after months of what could be described as reclaiming his time and enjoying Fashion. The new Runway collection is also an exclusive collaboration with Bergdorf Goodman, the iconic luxury department store, meaning you won’t find it anywhere else. These two New-York City brands joining force for the love of fashion makes sense, historically and culturally speaking. It’s the story of creativity prevailing after a crisis. The show was held at the New York Public Library, a venue which suggested that we were scheduled for a serious lesson in Fashion.
Marc Jacobs knows how to capture the zeitgeist. His fashion is not necessarily sourced in a specific aesthetic, expect perhaps delivering thoughtful clothes. He tries. He changes. He adapts himself to what is out there. The AW21 collection did not disappoint in that regard. It is a savvy melange of ostentatious volumes, subtle details, holographic materials, shining fabrics, and his name in the form of optical art. It’s a collection that was designed for the runway and for life. Those clothes only make total sense worn, and in movement, with attitude and confidence. There were no post-show interviews. You either get it, or you don’t. The collection was accompanied by a message from Marc Jacobs. “On the journey back to doing what we love most, in the wake of immeasurable loss, loneliness, fear, anxiety and uncertainty, I am reminded of why creativity is so vital to our existence,” Jacobs states in a heartfelt, honest letter. “Through the physicality of this shared experience, I hope to offer a moment of inspiration, curiosity, wonder and possibility.” The collection did not follow style conventions expected from a brand that has played a key role in defining modern American fashion. It was an outing for young souls, many of whom consider gender and sexuality merely words used by society to codify one’s existence. It’s Marc Jacobs’s vision of the future, free from rules and optimistic.
Sliding into Marc Jacobs’s Instagram DMs, I wondered if he was happy: “I am feeling relieved, proud, and above all: grateful and happy. Extremely grateful and very happy. I did write (with help from Nick) exactly how I was feeling in our show notes. I haven’t come down from all the joy. Maybe that’s a yet, but for now I am happy.”
Travelling to attend the show required a vaccination passport, which I was devastated not to have at the time. Biggest takeaway: get your vaccine and get on a plane to Bergdorf Goodman when this dynamic collection lands.
